Raiatea – The Sacred Heart of Polynesia

Last year, we spent some time in the Pacific—a time and place I’ll never forget. 

The Pacific Ocean mesmerized me for its vastness, stretching endlessly into the horizon, where the sky melts into thousand shades of blue. It has a way of keeping you on your toes—one minute it’s calm and serene, the next it’s wild and unpredictable, reminding you who’s really in charge.

The ocean humbles, restores and inspires; all at the same time.

And then, there are the Polynesian islands. 

The islands are like something out of a dream—remote, raw, and incredibly beautiful. It’s amazing how these rugged bits of land sit right in the middle of the vast ocean, so far from everything, yet so full of life. Towering cliffs, lush green hills, and crystal-clear lagoons make every island feel like a hidden gem. There’s a wildness to the landscape that’s hard to put into words, but it makes you feel alive and connected to something bigger. Being here, surrounded by so much natural beauty, you can’t help but slow down and just take it all in.

And for me, that means sailing; with just a few friends, surrounded by nature, feeling the wind in my hair. There’s no place I feel more at peace.

So, we’ve rented a catamaran, the Vaihea, from Raiatea. 

In Polynesian mythology, Raiatea holds a sacred and almost divine status. It is often considered the spiritual and cultural heart of the Society Islands and is linked to the gods in many traditional stories.

According to legend, Raiatea—known as Havai‘i in ancient times—was the birthplace of the gods and the origin of many Polynesian voyaging traditions. It’s home to Taputapuātea, one of the most important ancient marae -sacred temples- in the entire Pacific, believed to be a place where humans could connect with the divine.

We’ve arrived at the Raiatea’s small airport one early afternoon. We had a spare night at Raiatea before the cruise – a mistake, we should have planned for a few more – and we took a taxi to our rental house, the Fare Mirimiri. Our lady driver approved our choice. 

‘Donc, vous allez loger chez Cathy. Belle maison, gens encore plus sympas.’ 

She was right. The house was large and comfortable, Cathy and her husband Ralph were super friendly and the views from our fare were to die for. 

Dinner was at Fish & Blue that night, just a short -and very steep – walk from our fare. When I was making the reservation, we were advised to come early, to have cocktails on the little dock. Great advice, for the sunset colors were something else. Tropical sunsets light up the sky with fiery yellows, reds and purples, turning the end of the day into pure magic.

We dined on tuna steaks and sashimi, washing them down with a bottle of chilled Chardonnay. One of the perks of visiting French Polynesia is finding large selection of French wines almost everywhere.

The next morning, we sat down for a lovely chat with Cathy over coffee. Before the pandemic, she made a comfortable living designing pearl jewelry—her necklaces were especially popular. But like so many others, her business came to a sudden stop when everything shut down. She and her husband used that quiet time to expand their property, and once tourists returned, they decided to start welcoming guests. Sitting on that balcony, on a remote Pacific island thousands of miles from home, I found myself reflecting on those years—realizing just how deeply the pandemic affected each and every one of us.

I was most interested in her tattoos that were covering almost all her body. She proudly explained us their meanings, and importance. 

They’re not just body art, she said. Les tatau tell stories of identity, heritage, and life milestones. Each symbol and pattern has meaning: ocean waves might represent change and life’s journey; spearheads stand for strength; turtles symbolize family and longevity. Tattoos marked a person’s social status, achievements, or tribal affiliation. She showed us her family and heritage tattoos, which proved she was descended from a royal line. 

For many Polynesian cultures, Raiatea is seen as the starting point of migration, where navigators set sail to explore and settle the vast Pacific. In this sense, it’s not just a physical island, but a deeply spiritual one, often described as created or chosen by the gods as a center of knowledge, ceremony, and cosmic connection.

It is rugged, green, and wild in the most beautiful way. Her peaks rise into clouds, with valleys full of breadfruit, hibiscus, and towering ferns. Unlike tourist-favorite Bora Bora, Raiatea feels untouched, more wild. It’s believed by Polynesians to be the spiritual and cultural birthplace of their civilization—the ancient Havai’i from which great ocean navigators set off to discover Hawaii and Rapa Nui.

One could imagine the ceremonies and sacred rituals that encouraged these island people to navigate the vast ocean on waka’s – the outrigger canoes- relying only on stars, ocean swells, bird flight patterns, and cloud shapes—skills passed down orally through generations.

Luckily for us, our catamaran Vaihea with its modern navigation instruments and comfortable accommodation was waiting for us at the Sunsail base at Marina Apooiti. 

For provision shopping, we went to Champion, a short drive away. It was well stocked plus they were offering free transportation to our boat. I’ve done my fair share of provisioning in tropical islands and this place offered one of the better experiences.

As a bonus, we found a lovely little coffee shop just opposite, Patisserie Bon Apetahi, that served killer coffee and croissants. 

After a superb chart briefing, we finally set sail to Taha’a, just 3 knots away. 

Nestled in the Society Islands, Raiatea shares a protective lagoon with her sister island, Taha’a—so close, they’re often seen as two halves of the same spirit. While Raiatea is revered for her sacred legacy, Taha’a, the “Vanilla Island,” is a charming island full of flowers and timeless calm.

We anchored at Apu Bay, passing a sleeping whale en route. We had swam with these giants just a few days ago in Moorea, and seeing one here, at the beginning of our trip was an auspicious omen as one can hope for. 

After a quiet night on board enjoying fish burgers and beer, we decided to spend the following day in Taha’a, visiting its pearl and vanilla farms. 

One of Raiatea’s most famous treasures lies beneath the lagoon’s shimmering surface: the stunning black pearl. Pearl farming here is not just an industry—it’s an ancient tradition rooted in patience and respect for nature. 

We’ve visited the Champon pearl farm, tucked into the edge of a coral reef, where black-lipped oysters are coaxed into creating luminous black pearls. Watching those pearls being gently harvested, I realized how much these islanders knew about patience and reverence—for nature, for beauty, for time itself.

Just imagine selecting one tiny bead, which is made from Mississippi freshwater mussel shell; implant it into an oyster and wait years for the oyster to slowly coat the bead with layers of nacre – mother of pearl – doing its best to create the perfect luster and shape. 

Each pearl is unique, like a drop of the sea. Watching the process, from grafting to harvesting, I understood why I’ve always liked pearls. Each carry a piece of the ocean  – my favorite element- within. 

The lovely ladies at the farm demonstrated the whole process to us in a really simple, clear way, then invited us to check out the different types in their showroom. They knew their stuff but were super laid-back, not pushing for a sale, which made the whole experience even more enjoyable.

Afterwards, we took a stroll to a nearby vanilla farm, enjoying the flowers en route, wrapped in the warm, sweet scent of vanilla—the island’s pride and passion. 

Vanilla farming here is done almost entirely by hand: one blossom, one day at a time. Each bean is cared for like a treasure, and it shows in the richness of the flavor. We visited a tiny family-run plantation, where a grandmother showed me how she massages the beans during curing, “to wake them up,” she said with a wink.

The next day, we set sail to Bora Bora; another paradise on earth. As I looked back to the twin islands of Raiatea and Taha’a, one with its divine legends and the other with its sweet smelling calm, it hit me all over again—this is why I love sailing, not just to move through the sea, but to move through stories, senses, and spirit.

Please check out my blog posts on Moorea and Bora Bora.