Martinique is an island with many nicknames; ‘the Island of Flowers’, ‘The French Caribbean Gem’ , ‘The Blue Paradise’ …
All ring true of course. But for me, it’s the island of gorgeous sunsets, beautiful people and endless ‘Anse’s (coves).
And, yes, an incredible combo of French & Creole culture.
Some basics first :
Martinique is an Overseas Territory of France, in West Indies, in the eastern Caribbean Sea.
It’s history is typical to the region. In a nutshell, its original people, the peace loving Arawaks were decimated by the warrior clan of Caribs, who were later decimated by the French. For some reason the Spanish were not interested, so the British, Dutch and French navies fought over it during the Colonisation period, with French gaining the upper hand in the end. And, of course, it had it share of slavery until 1815 and maybe a couple of decades after that.
Today, as a part of the EU, the island enjoys a higher standard of living than most other Carribean Islands. Plus, following the French joie de vivre, many businesses close at midday, then reopen later in the afternoon. Pas mal du tout, no ?
Locals speak French and Kréyol Mat’nik, a version of Martinican Creole. English is ok in larger towns and establishments, but for smaller places, learning a few French phrases could come handy.
We chose Les Trois-Îlets for our stay and found an airbnb on the beach at Anse Mitan, a short walk away from the very lively Pointe Du Bout, with its many restaurants, boutiques and a small marina.
The upside were the excellent croissants and French baguettes at Pom’ Kanel that I bought every morning for breakfast , and the sunset swims and walks on the beach after a long day of anse hopping.
There really was no downside.
A must stop at Les Trois-Îlets is the Village de Potiers; the place to visit if you’re interested in learning about the island’s pottery tradition, have a chat with local artists and want to pick up some unique souvenirs. As a budding potterist (is there such a word ?) I ticked all the boxes.
A few minutes after you turn to the village’s byroad, the earth itself becomes a wonderful shade of red, which is the actual ingredient the local artists use to create the ceramics. Nature, once again, is providing the canvas for the artists.
We went there twice, once in day time to visit the ateliers, which I enjoyed a lot, and the second time for dinner at La Mandoline; a fine dining restaurant with great food and a lovely atmosphere. As a bonus, there was live music at one of the galeries, which made our evening even more memorable.
After Guadelope, we found Martinique more cosmopolitan, and the line between the white and black communities less visible.
Driving around Martinique, we passed through miles and miles of banana and sugar cane plantations and trees. Everywhere we looked we saw endless shades of green, some even covering the smaller roads. There was beauty in every bend.
Martinique is a large island and we tried to discover as much of it as we can, from Saint Pierre in the north to Le Diamant at the south.
Plage du Diamant, which quickly became one of my favourite beaches in the Caribbean, is a must see.
There’s a little village with the same name, a couple of seaside cafes and a small market that sells fruits, dresses and some very nice paintings by a French artist who decided to spend the pandemic at Martinique and stayed on. His kids, he said, were missing their friends at Lyon in the beginning, but now were quite adjusted to the island life. The school system was good and they’ll go to France for Uni. Apart from that, he had no plans. I liked that.
We bought coconuts from the young men at the front, EUR 1 each, a tourists price. Their juices were warm and oh so delicious.
After you pass the village, park your car on the road, walk for a couple of minutes under the canopy of palm trees, et voila, you’re in paradise.
There you see the Morne Diamant / Diamond Rock, a volcanic islet a few miles off the coast. It looks rough and kinda amazing, a stubborn green rock against the Caribbean blue.
We went there on a Sunday and had a chance to witness how the Martiniques enjoy their weekend. Swimming, picnics on the beach, taking long walks, dancing to live music and generally falling in love with life.
En-route to explore the western side of the island, we came accross the Mémorial de l’Anse Cafard at Cap 110, a constant reminder of the horrors of the slave trade.
It specifically honors a tragic event: a ship that was carrying slaves sank at that specific location in 1830. Though the slave trade was outlawed in 1815, illegal trafficking continued. This shipwreck claimed the lives of most of the enslaved people on board.
The memorial features a group of 15 abstract, white concrete statues arranged in a triangle. They are off white stone, because it’s the colour of mourning in Martinique. They have no distinctive features, because one slave was no different than the next. They lean forward with downcast eyes and open mouths, conveying a sense of despair and a silent scream, watching the far away Gulf of Guinea, the region where most enslaved Africans were taken from.
The symbolism and the beauty of the place effected us deeply.
Southwest of the island is home to many of the famed beaches of Martinique; the Anse Noir, a stunning beach of volcanic black sand, Les Anses-d’Arlet which consists of Grand & Petite Anse and Anse Dufour, with their different atmosphere and clientele. The village itself is small but very charming with colorful Creole houses, shops, and art galleries.
There we found Snack Fredo, a seaside Creole restaurant with killer views, friendly staff and delicious langustines. What’s there not to like ?
We spent another day discovering the south coast; Sainte-Luce, Sainte-Anne and Le Marin, which boasts one of the biggest marinas in the Caribbean. Due to its sheltered location and proximity to the Sainte Lucie channel, it was the scene of numerous naval battles until the beginning of the 19th century. Nowadays, it’s filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants.
Speaking of, we stumbled upon a little gem of a restaurant, Ti SonSon and had a lovely lunch of accras, seafood burgers and mojitos. Very relaxed place, great food, strong drinks, good reggea music. My kind of Caribbean.
There we watched the yoles, traditional square sail boats and their superb crews practise. They put on quite a show.
Yoles, specifically yoles rondes are a big part of the Martinican heritage, representing resilience, cultural identity, and teamwork. They are lightweight, fast, and shallow-draft boats, and can navigate close to the shore. Unlike most sailboats, they have no keel or rudder for steering.They are around 10 meters long and require a unique balancing technique. Crew members perch on the sides on long wooden poles called bwa dressés.
Their agility and coordination are crucial for keeping the boat stable.
Yoles originated in the 19th century, used by fishermen for their livelihood. Over time, races between fishing communities became a popular tradition. Today, the annual Tour des Yoles Rondes is a major sporting event in Martinique and watching the crews practise is a rare joy.
And of course, there is Fort-de-France, the vibrant capital city of Martinique. Founded in 1638, Fort-de-France served as a strategic military outpost and a center for trade. It’s formidable fort, the Fort Saint-Louis still guards the entrance to the harbour.
There we visited the Bibliothèque Schœlcher, a magnificent library built in the late 19th century, famous for its ornate ironwork, stained glass windows, and vast collection of books and documents.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the library was a gift to Martinique from Victor Schœlcher, a French politician and abolitionist who played a key role in ending slavery in the French colonies.
The library houses a vast collection of over 300,000 books, documents, and archives. These include works on history, literature, science, and the arts, with a particular focus on the Caribbean region and the history of slavery.
Another place to visit is the Cathédrale Saint-Louis, with its unique blend of architectural styles,showcasing a mix of Gothic, Roman, and Byzantine influences. We light a candle there, for offering our thanks to this beautiful island and its generous people. And making a wish for future journeys.
I believe that the places I go become a part of me somehow and I left Martinique feeling grateful and enriched.
CherryPicks 