Guadeloupe – wings of a butterfly

Guadeloupe is completely unique, beautiful and huge. That is, compared to most of the Caribbean islands. In shape and color it resembles a giant green-gold butterfly, drifting lazily; the green comes from the heavy cover of vegetation, the gold from the constant play of sunlight and hectares of banana plantations.

Guadeloupe is really two islands with the two butterfly wings separated by a canal once, marinas and bridges now. The eastern wing of the butterfly, the Grande-Terre is low and flat and composed of holiday towns and farmland; the western, Basse-Terre , of high and rugged mountains, cascades and deep green vegetation. It’s breathtaking.

The explanation for this remarkable difference lay in the origins of the two halves: the eastern had risen from the rock base of the Caribbean forty million years ago, and this had provided ample time for its peaks to be eroded away, but the western had achieved its rise to the surface only five million years ago, and its mountains were still young.

Born of different impulses at vastly different times, the two halves are now joined in one magnificent whole, making Guadeloupe a beautiful destination to visit.

After some online research, we decided to stay at Le Gosier, sort of in the middle of the butterfly and discovered the island from there. Our Airbnb was very comfortable and came with a private beach access which we enjoyed throughly. If you have a limited time where you want to visit as many places as possible, Le Gosier was a great choice, with its quick access to motorway and many shops offering various necessities.

On our first day, which was a Sunday, we made the mistake of not reserving our table for lunch, mostly because we were planning to drive through the southern parts of the island, where one village follows the next, and we were sure to find a table for two somewhere.

Well, we forgot that Sundays belong to God and beaches in this part of the world, and most establishments were either closed or serving to the happy few. After a few misses we finally settled at a family run restaurant at Vieux-Fort and had a very memorable lunch which could have easily extended to dinner, because glaciers move faster than our chef/server/host. Luckily the dishes, when they arrived, were quite tasty.

After that start, things improved quite quickly.

A note on the cuisine : Guadeloupe offers a superb example of the Caribben cuisine. Creole flavors, fresh seafood, tropical fruits, and a variety of local spices create a gastronomic experience that make the taste buds very happy. We gorged on seafood, accras (fish fritters), boudin (blood sausage), and the delectable coconut-infused desserts.

And, of course, there’s the Guadeloupe rum.

Also known as Rhum Agricole, it is a distinct type of rum distilled from fresh sugarcane juice, resulting in a unique and flavorful taste.

The classic rum cocktail of the island is the Ti Punch, a simple drink made with white rum, lime juice, and sugar. And depending on your choice of rum, it can pull quite the punch.

Guadeloupe has some breath-taking beaches and it is a joy to explore them.

From the white sands of Grande-Anse to the black sands of Plage de Malendure, each shore offers a unique experience on Basse-Terre. The little village of Deshais, close to the Reserve Cousteau, offer spectacular views, cute p’tit bars and of course, world-class snorkelling.

Don’t forget to check out the lighthouse at Vieux-Fort, it offers spectacular sights, especially at sunset.

The tame Grand-Terre is more residential and crowded with beaches, restaurants, hotels and holiday rentals. We visited Plage de la Caravelle and Plage du Bourg Saint-Anne. Both were quite nice, with plenty of bars and restaurants at a walking distance.

Being the sailors we are, we checked out the marinas at Pointe-à-Pitre and Saint-François, and found both to be well organised and lively. The leisurely lunch we had at Le P’tit Îlet at Saint-François was one of the best we had on the island.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Guadeloupe is its distinct blend of French and Caribbean cultures. As an overseas department of France, Guadeloupe seamlessly intertwines the charm of French sophistication with the laid-back Caribbean way of life. This fusion is reflected in the local cuisine, language, and architecture, creating a unique atmosphere that sets the islands apart.

When in Guadeloupe, it’s essential to visit one (or all) of the surrounding islands; which are unique in their own way. Guadeloupe’s smaller islands—Marie-Galante, Les Saintes, and La Désirade are scattered all around the main islands and have different ferry companies, operating from different bases.

We chose Les Saintes for an overnight visit. After a quick and bumpy ferry ride from Trois-Riviere we found ourselves at the picturesque Îles des Saintes, with its breath taking archipelago, colorful houses, green hills and secluded coves. Our airbnb home and especially our hostes were very charming, who we add to the list of wonderful people we met on our travels.

Les Saintes is quite hilly, so if you’re not on top form, it’s best to rent a buggy or a motor bike from various rental shops at the harbour. We rented a buggy and toured all around the island.

We climbed up and down the world famous Pain de Sucre for a quick dip, had a lovely lunch at La Paillot, visited Fort Napoléon and unwind at Plage de Pompiers.

Afterwards, we visited the small bars and souvenir shops along the pier.

Dinner was at Le Genois, where we sit on a small jetty on the water and enjoyed fresh seafood with crisp white wine. Tip : the fish cakes and boudin were to die for.

The trip to Le Saintes was lovely in all aspects and the perfect way to end our Guadeloupe adventure.

Next stop : Martinique

Some notes on Guadeloupe :

⁃ The islanders speak French and Creole, and although most speak some English, it’s a good idea to learn some French phrases or download a reliable (preferably offline) translator.

⁃ Most Caribbean islands have decent cell/internet coverage, but they have different telecom operators. Unless you are planning to visit only one island, it might be a pain to switch between local operators. We are quite satisfied with GigSky, which offers various geography based packages.

⁃ The best time to visit Guadeloupe is during the dry season, from December to May. We were there at mid December and had very little rain and tolareable humidity. Plus, all the roads were open and in good condition.

⁃ It’s a good idea to rent a car, the island is vast and beautiful. You don’t want to miss it.

⁃ If you plan to visit the smaller islands, it’s best to plan and book in advance. Some islands are more difficult to reach, and the departing points are scattered all around the island. We used Val Ferry for our trip to Les Saintes. The boats were clean and on time. And there’s a reserved parking place for EUR 5 per day at Trois-Riviere.

Do you have any questions or specific interests about Guadeloupe? Feel free to ask, and I’d be happy to help you plan your dream Caribbean escape!